Boro Stitching

A variation of Sashiko quilting, Boro stitching is a Japanese textile technique that is both an art form and a practical, decorative way to mend fabrics and garments. The word, Boro, means “ragged”, or “tattered”, and usually has a patchwork look. Traditionally, it is sewn by layering fabrics and hand-stitching using a running stitch. I started a project several months ago using the Boro technique (by machine, of course) and it has been in my UFO pile since then. I finally finished the project (a journal cover) and this post is a tutorial about how I stitched the fabric and finished the project.

Supplies

• Base fabric, 25” x 13” – I used a medium weight denim but any woven fabric, from muslin to quilting cotton will work. If using a light to medium weight base fabric, you may want to use a layer of batting for a quilted look. I did not use batting because of the weight of the denim.
• Assorted fabric scraps – I mainly used an assortment linens and batiks, but again, quilting cotton fabrics are perfect for this
• Lining fabric – 24” x 11 ½” – quilting cotton
• Topstitching 30 wt. thread – I used Mettler Cordonnet #9146, which is white, but any color that coordinates, blends or contrasts (your preference) will work
• Cordonnet Foot #11 for the Boro Stitching
• Button Sew-on Foot #18 for sewing on decorative buttons
• Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C/20D for edgestitching
• Patchwork Foot #37, 57, or 97 for stitching quarter inch seams
• Bobbin thread – 40 or 50-weight cotton or polyester
• Topstitching needle, size 100
• Decorative cardstock for printing the quote. This can also be printed on decorative paper
• Decorative buttons as desired. I used three buttons but you can add more or less as you want
• Fabric swatch. about 4½” x 2½” – I used a piece of linen and fringed the edges by removing threads
• Two paper brads
• Composition Book, 9 ¾” x 7 ½”x ½”.

Machine Set-Up

Cordonnet is the French word for “little cord” and is the name of 30-weight Mettler topstitching thread. It is also the name of the BERNINA topstitch needle and BERNINA presser foot #11. All three of these items were made to work together.

1. Thread the machine using the Cordonnet thread in the needle and the lighter weight thread in the bobbin.
2. Attach Cordonnet Foot #11 to the machine. This foot has a channel on the sole that lets the heavy thread move easily as you stitch.
3. Select the straight stitch and increase the stitch length to 3mm-4mm.

Creating the Fabric

1. Arrange the fabric pieces on the base fabric, overlapping as desired, making sure the base is completely covered. Note: Because I used denim, I had no issue stitching with heavy thread. You may want to test your fabrics to see if the stitches pucker or pull as you stitch. If it does, you can add a layer of batting, stabilizer or fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the base fabric.
2. Typically, you will not need to make any tension adjustments, however, if you don’t like the look of your stitch, adjust the needle tension to get the look you want (usually by decreasing the tension setting).
3. Stitch as desired across the entire fabric. I randomly stitched horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines of stitching. You decide when it looks good to you and the stitching is complete.
4. Trim the stitched fabric to 24” x 11 ½”.

Fitting the Cover 

Wrap the cover around the book, turning the excess ends into the book to create pockets that will hold the cover. The pockets should both be about 3 to 3 ½” wide at this point.

Close the book with the fabric wrapped around it. The purpose of this is to see the front of the cover so you will know where you want to embellish it. Use the photo above to see what I did but you can also make your book unique.

Printing and Attaching the Quote

1. Download the PDF of the quote. Print the quote and trim it to be about 3″ x 2″, using pinking shears or a decorative rotary blade.
2. Position the quote on the front of the cover as shown. I layered the quote on the linen swatch and used two brads, putting them though the cardstock, fabric swatch, and the Boro fabric.

Sewing Buttons

1. Attach Button Sew-on Foot #18 to the machine and lower the feed dog.
2. Position the button on the fabric where desired and put it under the foot with the button holes between the two short toes of the foot.
3. Turn the handwheel to determine if the stitch width is the same as the width between the holes. If it is not, adjust the stitch width as needed.
4. Select the Button Sew-on Program and stitch until the machines stops automatically. Note: This is a good place to use the Start/Stop button instead of the foot control. 

Lining the Cover

Place the outer fabric and lining right sides together; pin or clip the edges. Using a ¼” seam, stitch all four sides, leaving an opening in the lower edge.

Turn the cover to the right side and press the cover, using a wooden clapper (or a heavy book) to flatten the sewn edges. Press the edge and then place the clapper on it for a few seconds as the fabric cools.

Edgestitching

1. Turn the lower edges to the inside and use pins or clips to hold them.
2. Edgestitch all four edges using Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C/20D, closing the opening in the process. Align the edge of the cover with the inside toe of the foot and adjust the needle to stitch about 1/8” from the edge.

Finishing the Cover

1. Wrap the cover around the book, turning the excess ends into the book to create pockets to hold the cover.
2. Remove the book from the cover and edgestitch the upper and lower edges of the pockets, sewing over the previous edgestitching.
3. Insert the book into the cover.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and are inspired to make your own Boro stitching project. If so, please send a photo to: [email protected]. As always,